Bord Eau: Abu Dhabi's Answer To Fine Dining

It’s a dying breed in Abu Dhabi.  

One of the few truly fine dining restaurants left in the city, an experience where no dish is really as it appears and everything is so balanced, so interesting and so complex, you think about it long after you’ve finished.  

This is Bord Eau.

‍

The dining room is fairly grand, and if it wasn’t for the views of the Grand Mosque and the stark white villas opposite, you might be forgiven for thinking you’d walked into somewhere in France.  Chairs are comfortable - a situation not to be taken for granted in this world where aesthetics come first  - and it’s just as well: settle in with your complimentary glass of champagne for a relaxed evening where food and wine are to be savoured.

‍

‍

If you’re lucky, Chef David Tavernier will set your course for the evening.  He has his favourites, is keen to show off his considerable skill, and make your journey one to remember.  

As the amuse bouche is deposited on the table, we know we we’re in for a treat.  Not only is the composition of each mouthful totally beautiful, the tastes are next level. A pani puri shell filled with a complex tomato melange might have been our favourite, while lovers of fennel will enjoy the concoction, served on a small spoon. 

‍

A hot and cold soup? This is where things get interesting. 

The star of Chef Nicolas’ show is the modern French onion soup made with a compote of caramelised onions, croutons and the surprising addition of onion ice-cream. Once the rich broth has been poured into the bowl, the ice-cream begins to melt into the glorious shredded compté. Now this is a dish.

‍

The seabass ceviche might get the prize for my favourite dish of the  evening. This light little plate is a delicate rendition of a tried and tested dish, but there’s a twist. It’s served with what feels like a contradiction in terms - a cold, vibrant green, searingly hot jalapeno sorbet, that is mercifully toned down with a mouthful of the fish. This is a taste sensation - the icy sorbet, alongside the corn crisp and the soft seabass is wonderful. Even the colours have you fooled!

We also try an interesting take on escargots.  At first glance, the dish looks like a foamy pasta sensation, but hiding under the ribbons of open ravioli are the snails, heavy on parsley and garlic and tasting beautiful.  This is a sizey portion - but do leave room for the main event, which, if you’re having one of the set menus, you’ll be heading for at this point, choosing either meat or fish. 

‍

Our fish course came in the form of a wide shallow bowl filled with a decidedly creamy yellow laksa and a fillet of cod, covered by a yuba crisp and decorated with flowers. This Indonesian-inspired dish is absolutely delicious, particularly the laksa base, which is rich and coconutty and perfect as an elevation to the more mild cod. 

‍

Steak lovers won’t be disappointed. The Wagyu tenderloin, with a large wedge of foie gras, is spectacularly good. The red wine sauce is excellent, as is the generous amount of truffle grated onto the dish by Chef David himself.  Not a lover of truffle? Don’t be put off by the poor impersonations that grace so many of our dishes these days - this is the real deal. It’s delicate and beautiful and must be enjoyed in this, the last of the fine dining restaurants in Abu Dhabi. 

We finish in style with a chocolate bomb. A hot fudge sauce is poured over the sphere to reveal a glorious mix of ripe cherries and vanilla cream. Again, this hot/cold sensation is something to be championed, for the interest level it brings and the depth of flavours it promotes. 

‍

In each tasting course, experienced sommeliers will suggest wine pairing, a beautiful addition to the already excellent offering. 

‍

‍

Bord Eau is the place to go for a special occasion, a place that’s perfect for your foodie companion’s birthday or a treat for someone who appreciates great food in a refined setting.  When you leave, you feel like you’ve experienced something a bit out of the ordinary, a bit different and a lot good.  

It’s an evening well-spent.

‍